The dates, which never change
It is run twice a year: on 2 July, the Palio di Provenzano, and on 16 August, the Palio dell’Assunta. These dates are fixed. If bad weather forces a postponement, the race slips by a day or two.
There are seventeen contrade, but ten run in each Palio: the seven that did not run in the corresponding race the previous year, plus three drawn by lot.
The four days before are worth as much as the race
It begins with the assignment of the horses and the trial races — six in all — run in the square morning and evening. They are free and far less crowded than the Palio itself: for many visitors they are the best chance to see the square in action.
On the eve of the race each contrada holds its dress-rehearsal dinner: long outdoor tables in the streets of its own territory, hundreds of people. It is often possible to join by buying a place in advance, contacting the contrada directly.
On the morning of the Palio each contrada takes its horse into church to be blessed. It is brief and intense, far more solemn than you might expect.
Where to watch
The centre of the square is free but has to be earned: you go in many hours ahead and do not leave, standing, under the July or August sun. It is the most intense experience and the most demanding.
The stands and the windows of the surrounding palazzi are rented out, at prices that climb as the date approaches. Look for them well in advance, directly from owners or through local agencies.
If you would rather avoid the crowd, follow the live broadcast from a bar: less romantic, but you see far more of the race.
Booking: as early as you can
During Palio days Siena and its surroundings fill up completely. Anyone starting to look in May for 2 July finds little, and expensive. The right months to book are winter and early spring.
Consider staying just outside the walls too: during the Palio the centre is closed to traffic and crowded well into the night, and having somewhere quiet to return to changes the whole stay.
